A Philly Fourth

Since it's still July, I think the clock is not yet up on a post about being in the birthplace of the country on its anniversary. Having spent most of my life celebrating the 4th in Washington, DC, with the fireworks set behind the Washington Monument, I wasn't really expecting a singularly patriotic experience. In fact, what surprised me about the day here was that the celebrations felt more real, small-town, American than the massive celebrations in Washington.

The highlight of the day was going down to Old City to see the parade. It was like a very, very long version of a small town parade, with myriad ethnic groups represented and some extra historical reenactors thrown in. There were very few floats or large marching bands; most of the groups were smaller dance troupes or performers. We were surprised to find the parade route relatively uncrowded and had no trouble getting close up for good view. So, leaning against the wrought-iron fences surrounding one of the oldest churches in the country and the burial place of Benjamin Franklin, we watched step dancers, Civil War reenactors, Chinese ribbon dancers, a band of mummers, a polish heritage float, Irish dancers, local politicians, Native American dancers, and antique cars pass by. That curious mix made me feel happier to be American than just about anything else could have.

Ben Franklin was here

Well...it's not the most high-minded connection to history, but it's pretty funny that the National Park Service marked where Ben Franklin went to the bathroom. Privy pits are actually quite useful to archaeologists, because people threw away all sorts of trash into them--often pipes, broken pottery, or cooking leftovers. This privy is located right behind Franklin's grandson's print shop on Market Street in Old City. Behind the shop is a courtyard with two metal frames outlining where Franklin's house and shop would have been. How did archaeologists know this was the privy? Usually, by slight gradations in soil color that are revealed as they dig--and by all of the trash.

The remains of a 3-year dig at the site of the near-by National Constitution Center are being sorted around the corner from here at the Independence Living History Center. The large block where the museum is now located was once a busy neighborhood with a mix of socioeconomic classes and even races. The pottery that's being pieced together at the Center is indicative of this--some tables are full of plain, chunky bowls, while others have delicate blue and white (I assume delftware) tea cups.

My visit to Old City also included a stop at the Arch Street Meeting House, a walk through Elfreth's Alley and talks with some reenactors and storytellers. There's a surprisingly large area of 18th-century buildings that are still around, some of which are now private homes or offices. I also managed to make a stop for lunch at a Philly cheesesteak place called Campo's Deli (check out their website, there is actually a video of the making of their sandwiches). I got an enormous vegetarian wrap then headed toward home--all of this, without getting lost!